As far back as I can remember, Old Goa has always symbolised a place where Goan Christians went for worship. That’s the way, we looked at it but I guess that isn’t the way the hordes of tourists that come to the state look at it.
Recently, I decided to head out there for a visit with my brother and explore the city. There are quite a number of offbeat places to visit in Old Goa that merit a visit. It made me feel guilty for not exploring our own beautiful state more.
Heading off the beaten path also meant that it was a quiet and peaceful day without the noise of the tourists. The fact that it was the start of the rainy season also helped significantly.
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What Old Goa Means To The Goan In Me
The city has always been one of the iconic spots to visit in Goa and is particularly busy around the feast of St. Francis Xavier in December. People from all around the state would flock to the city for the novenas at the church.
To me, heading to Old Goa for the novenas just takes me back to my childhood. I remember the throngs of crowds, the stalls, the heat and lack of chairs… Oh yes… I also remember all the elders warning us not to stray and to hold their hands.
My grandmother would walk us down the paths and point to different things while telling stories of her childhood. Today, it seems like I walk down those paths nostalgic of mine.
I remember my parents talking about the body of St. Francis Xavier and how after hours in line, I remarked that the Saint was really tiny.
My dad had to shush me though I think he must have felt like laughing. There was a solemnity to the whole process.
Went I visited the church (although I did not get in), I found that solemnity lacking. Tourists from all parts of India flock down to the church with no regard for either the dress code or behaviour that one should display in a holy place. I heard people shouting while others tried to pray.
The church felt more like a photo op than a religious monument and I have to say that it made me sad. I do understand that people all don’t follow the same religion but respecting someone else’s place of worship is something that we all should do.
Where To Stay
Wondering where to stay if you want to visit Old Goa? Almost all the cities in Goa are doable and you don’t have to pick just one in order to get to the city.
If you want to be centrally located and you also want the closest spot then I would suggest staying in Panjim (also known as Panaji). There are a variety of options that are available as you can see from the map above.
The Popular Sights In Old Goa
Before I head on to talk about the offbeat places to visit in Goa, let’s take a look at the more popular ones.
I have to warn you that if you head to the city anytime close to the Feast of St. Francis Xavier which is on the 3rd of December, you will find that the city is crowded.
If you want to experience what the festivities are like then I would highly recommend visiting. If you however just want to be a tourist and click some Instagram pics or try and take in the architecture in peace, then pick a different time.
1. Bom Jesus Basilica
A glimpse of the famous Basilica from the distance.
Bom Jesus Basilica also known as Basilica de Bom Jesus or Basilica of Bom Jesus lies in the heart of the city and ranks as one of the top places to visit in Old Goa. The iconic brown building dates back to 1605 when it was consecrated.
Today, the Basilica is the resting place of the remains of Goa’s patron saint namely St. Francis Xavier. For many, the church is a pilgrimage spot where they head to every year. For others it is an iconic landmark with its large arches and beautiful interiors. It is also one of the most visited churches in Old Goa.
2. Se Cathedral
A glimpse of the Se Cathedral from the main road.
Right across the road from the Basilica de Bom Jesus is another church that bears mention. This is none other than Se Cathedral.
As opposed to the bare brown walls of the Basilica of Bom Jesus, Se Cathedral is white and it stands out against the green landscaped gardens.
Built in the early 17th century, this church is remarkably well preserved. The interiors of Se Cathedral are as beautiful as the exterior.
3. The Museum
There is a museum on the church grounds but I must confess that I haven’t been to it since I was a little girl. I remember being taken through the museum rooms as part of a school trip. It is on my bucket list to head back and revisit someday soon.
Offbeat Places To Visit In Old Goa
While everyone heads to Old Goa to see the famous 17th century churches, there is a lot to see around the city.
Sometimes it means just randomly stopping at the side of the road when you see an old structure. I found it a cool way to explore the city.
The downside to this is that you need plenty of time on your hands and you need to have your own mode of transport.
4. The Ruins Of St. Augustine Church
Ruins of the convent at the Church of St. Augustine.
The St. Augustine Church is a UNESCO heritage site and surprisingly remains one of the offbeat places to visit in Old Goa. It may be me, but I had never visited the ruins of the once majestic church till recently.
While the ruins are fun to explore, what intrigued me the most was the history behind the construction of the church and how the remains of the martyred Georgian Queen came to be placed within it.
I won’t delve into that story because I have already talked about the church in a separate article. You can click on the link above if you are curious.
Another spot that you can choose to visit is the Museum of Christian art. It is located right at the side of the ruins of the St. Augustine Church. I however have not had a chance to visit it since it was closed at the time we arrived.
5. Museum Of Christian Art
This is one of my favourite pics that Darius Fernandes took that day.
The Old Goa Ferry terminal is another cool place to stop and take in the view. You will find a couple of boats anchored close by. It is one of those offbeat places to visit in Old Goa that I love because of the vibe.
We passed by just in time to see the sun set and reflect of the water of the Mandovi river. Life had never felt so good or peaceful. I just wished we had more time to sit and enjoy the view for longer.
6. The Viceroy’s Arch
A gorgeous pic of the Viceroy’s Arch by Darius Fernandes.
A much overlooked place to visit in Old Goa is the Viceroy’s arch. You pass through it on your way to the Old Goa Ferry terminal.
While you may think that an arch is just an arch, this particular one has a lot of history attached to it. Built in 1559-1600, this arch was made in memory of Vasco da Gama. It was restored in 1954.
7. The Church Of St. Cajetan
A sliver of Rome in Old Goa.
The Church of St. Cajetan is a slice of Rome in Goa. Not many people head this way and in part it was one of my favourite places to visit in Old Goa.
The façade of the church is beautifully maintained. Two rectangular towers serve as belfries on either side. A dome can be seen at the top of the church.
We did not get to visit the inner sanctum of the church but the outer beauty of it really captivated us.
With so many offbeat places to visit in Old Goa left to explore, expect the list to get longer with time. I definitely plan to head back.
The quiet old town vibe really captures my attention. It also takes me down memory lane which I find that I quite enjoy.
Note: Images for this post have been clicked by Darius Fernandes who is a professional photographer based out of Goa.
He loves being creative with his photo shoots and has a knack of making people feel comfortable in front of the camera (me included which is a feat!).
If you are looking for destination photography, he is the man for the job. Take a look at his Instagram page and you will see just what I mean!
Have you explored any of the offbeat places to visit in Old Goa? Do you have any more that you think we should add? Let us know in the comments below.